After my frustrations in making the orange crush dress, McCalls 4769, I want to sew something easy. Poking through my fabric stash and patterns while procrastinating on the collar, I found a large remnant of floral print cotton poplin leftover from my failed Jasmine blouse. There is enough to make the cover blouse, a cap sleeve, wrap “baby doll” top from Simple Modern Sewing, a sewing book with patterns I purchased a few years ago, but had yet to use.
As the subtitle indicates, the eight patterns have variations, in sleeve or body length or other design features, to come up with the 25 patterns. The patterns are sized XS-S-M-L and are designed with enough ease to be fairly loose fitting. Based on what is called length (of 15 1/2 inches) in the sizing guide, they are designed for shorter women than the standard 5′ 6″ height of standard North American or European pattern height sizing. Like Burdastyle magazine patterns, they need to be traced out and seam allowances added. For most seam allowances, it says to add 3/8 inch.
I traced out the small size of the top. I added 5/8 inch seam allowance because that ‘s the easy amount to add with the sewing curve/ruler I have. With this design and fabric, it will be a casual wear top.
I will make a narrower seam at the horizontal body seam to add for my approximately 16 inch back waist length. I will use the facings from version 1a., a wrap dress, to finish the front and back neck edges, instead of finishing with bias strips. I hate cutting, making and applying bias strips to edges.
After this, the next sewing project might be Vogue 8875, a Vintage pattern circa 1955, for a September event. I have lovely stretch rayon poly lycra crepe in a lighter weight than that used for the unworn New Look 6000 dress. I think it is the perfect fabric to pattern match. Other than those intimidating insets at the bodice/sleeve seam, the dress is easy to sew.
I cut out the dress pattern pieces over the weekend and spent more time looking at the instructions and the 1950s sewing details. Both dress and coat have three inch deep skirt hems. I double checked the legend to be sure about the lack of interfacing on the neck facing! The dress has a grosgrain waist stay. Finally, the narrow shaped belt is stiffened with hair canvas. I packed away the coat pattern pieces and instructions in a separate envelope.
Lewis getting closer to completion. I have to do more calculations to make much narrower sleeves compared to the pattern. Love the feel of the linen yarn and the rust red colour.